Rhone On My Mind
Back to feed- Posted: 3/6/2017
- Categories: Wine
To say I’ve been without much inspiration as of late is a conundrum. In trying to figure out exactly what this little wine blog is going to be I have been staring blankly at the screen, attempting to write something that contributes to both the local and global wine conversations, all while attempting to compel more people out there in the world to drop in – both here to this little blog, as well as into our two rather enormous brick-and-mortar stores. A tall order indeed, when I should focus solely on this blog being an addition to all that we do here at Jungle Jim’s, and not get hung up on proverbially trying to save the world of wine from plonk and pretentiousness instantaneously (that would be a feat of Herculean proportions in this day and age I think).
Yet inspiration abounds in the wake of the week of the Cincinnati International Wine Festival. Beginning with the annual tasting of Alain Junguenet Selections’ Southern Rhone wines with our partners at Vintner Select, this year hosted by New Riff Distillery in Bellevue, Kentucky. I missed last year’s tasting, which would have been my first as a member of Jungle Jim’s wine team (which I lovingly refer to as The Four Horsemen – I know, how metal of me, right?). Foregoing the sit-down seminar scenario (maybe they chucked that idea last year) it was much more informal, more relaxed, and easier to process (for me), I was able to speed-taste (as I am prone to do mainly out of guilt for being away from the office too long).
Beginning with Clos des Papes (what a great place to start a Southern Rhone tasting!), we were treated to a vertical of Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc:
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2015. Youthful, shy yet hinting at a brilliant exuberance in the years to come. Bright acidity buoyed by white flowers and waxy fruit.
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2010. Primarily Grenache Blanc and Clairette Blanc, the acidity is still front-and-center yet there is much more citrus and orchard fruit peering through its still-timid demeanor.
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2008. Supple and lush, the complexity is only now announcing itself.
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2004. I still have people that tell me they never expect Chateauneuf whites to go this long but there is white peaches, lemon oil and bouquets of honeysuckle still prancing around the palate here.
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2000. A kind-of mic-drop moment for me – the fruit is still resonant, the acidity still lively, the floral notes still taking me to the good places of my childhood. Wish I’d had more time with this one. Like an old friend you ran into at an airport in-between flights. Just not enough time to reminisce.
Tastings like these are a bit hyperbole in that you run into many familiar faces, and if you aren’t going all in with the meticulousness (diligent note-taking, dictaphone, endless pictures, social media check-ins, etc., etc.), your tasting of these wines becomes backdrop to a much-more in-the-moment moment, Catching up with the life stories of colleagues and co-conspirators in this endless motion picture of ourselves – yeah, that’s a bit extravagant, but you get the idea. Wine is much more than just a tasty beverage. Back in my old wineblogger days, I said that wine was a “life condiment” and I think I’ll stick with that term because it fits. Sure it’s exaggerated, but in the times we live in, I think it works.
Some other standouts of the show (for me, personally):
Olivier Hillare “H” Rouge Vin de France 2015. Grenache, Carignan and Syrah, this is an amazing value blend.
Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine Lirac Blanc 2016. I am a perennial fan of Domaine Lafond and the Blanc always catches my eye (and palate). Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier.
Domaine Boisson Cairanne “Les Trois Terroirs” Rouge 2015. This is a real rock star! A great GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre) blend.
Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2015. I seem to magically gravitate toward the wineries that began the year of my birth, and Donjon only solidifies that tendency. 70% Grenache with the rest of the blend consisting of Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault, this is a baby – it requires a bit of patience (as does most things in life).
All the wines were fantastic, another fine showing from all the wineries represented here in the U.S. by Alain Junguenet. Many thanks to John Junguenet for coming to Cincy (Northern KY) to show off the latest releases (and the vertical was a major treat!), all our good friends at Vintner Select for bringing the good noise, and the staff at New Riff for being great hosts.