Phoenix Rising

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(Photo courtesy of Vintner Select)

Earlier in the year, I was able to attend a seminar that was unlike any other wine seminar I’d been to in the past, for no other reason that it was akin to witnessing the rising of a Phoenix.  Local distributor Vintner Select, in partnership with importer Michael Skurnik, had begun a new relationship with illustrious and historic producer Paul Jaboulet Aîné from France’s Northern Rhone.

Beginning in 1834, Antoine Jaboulet began transforming the area around Hermitage in the Northern Rhone Valley into what would inevitably become one of the world’s most celebrated wine regions in the world, a century before it ever garnered A.O.C. (Appellation d’Origine Contrôllée) status.  Inevitably, the “La Chapelle” site in Hermitage has been revered as one of the greatest, most iconic names for wine, alongside Chateau d’Yquem, Chateau Lafite-Rothschild and DRC’s Romanée-Conti.

In 2006, the Frey family from Champagne purchased Jaboulet, and with winemaker Caroline Frey at the helm, the transformation from a winery that had begun focusing more on mass-market wine, was taken back to its roots, turned into a more organic/biodynamic producer, putting the highest quality over volume once again.  The past decade, Caroline and her team have pulled Jaboulet out of the pit and raised it back to its venerable self once again.

So it was great for Todd to get to see the positive changes made when the folks from Jaboulet dropped in on us at the Eastgate store this week.  It was a helluva flight for a hectic Friday afternoon:

1. Paul Jaboulet Condrieu “Domaine des Grand Amandiers” 2014.  Such a pretty Viognier, with bright acidity, vibrant white flowers in the nose, and slightly honeyed white peaches, beaming with ripeness.   
2. Paul Jaboulet Hermitage Blanc “Le Chevalier de Sterimberg” 2014.  This gorgeous Marsanne/Roussanne blend gives you peach and apricot aromas and flavors, with vibrant acidity arching through its gorgeous presence on the palate.
3. Paul Jaboulet Cotes-du-Rhone Rouge Parallèle 45 2014.  Even the Parallèle line got an upgrade with Caroline Frey on board, as this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah gives you a juicy red that shows remarkable complexity for its price point.
4. Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage “Les Jalets” 2013.  Neutral barrels allow the fruit to shine it all its Northern Rhone glory.  100% Syrah with black cherry, red currant, anise and cracked black pepper.
5. Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage “Domaine de Thalabert” 2010.  Roasted game and dark red fruits come alive in this one.  Completely biodynamically farmed.  An impressive Syrah.
6. Paul Jaboulet Cote-Rotie “Domaine des Pierrelles” 2013.  Very young, this bashful red holds close to its sublime red cherry and blueberry notes, slowly revealing dense minerality, more supple berry notes and robust tannins.  As it opens you get animal notes, exotic spices and black licorice too.
7. Paul Jaboulet Hermitage “La Petite Chapelle” 2010.  Nothing petite about this wine, which is derived primarily from two plots – Les Bessards and Le Meal.  More accessible in aroma and palate, this mighty Syrah is floral, fruity and sweetly spiced.  It’s a beautiful wine.
8. Paul Jaboulet Hermitage “La Chapelle” 2013.  The flagship if you will, this incredible, youthful Syrah from the biodynamically-farmed plots Les Bessards and Le Meal give you a glorious representation of all that is incredible in Hermitage – exquisite demonstration of terroir, rich minerality, dark fruits, animal characteristics, exotic spices and herbs – this is an amazing effort.

​While not everything we tasted is in the store, these wines are easily attainable, and are undoubtedly on the way to our shelves.  If you want to know what exceptional Syrah can be, and have been disappointed by cheaper versions of the grape, look no further for proof of their magnificence than Paul Jaboulet Aîné.